Friday, February 16, 2007

First shift at Beckta

Friday, February 16

Well, here I go again to another internship. But, this is my first one in Canada and where I can actually return home, my real true home, after my shift. Yeah! I was excited and nervous to be starting my internship at Beckta, the same feeling I had when I started my other internships but less nervous as I had learned some things.

Landing at the doorsteps at Beckta, I took a deep breath and walked in, well I couldn't walk in as I couldn't find the door in, which I eventually found at the end of the structure built on to the house. I walked through and it was the kitchen, complete with several chefs in their jeans that looked very young in the kitchen (young, like early 20s, is something that always exists in a kitchen and I'm getting used to in my old age), and the smells and sounds of food and stations being prepped. There is the main service kitchen upstairs and downstairs there is a large kitchen for prep and desserts, along with walk-in fridges and freezers, storage, office, change room, etc. Through this maze, I tried to find the head chef, Chef Michael Moffat, and finally did after asking several people. He told me to meet him upstairs. I had a small notebook in hand ready for the usual run down of what I had to do.

However, Michael asked me into the dining room to sit and was very warm and welcoming. He obviously likes talking to people, is passionate about sustainability, especially after having a son, who is now four months, and wanting him to have the kind of world and natural resources still available to him when he grows up and realizing that this will not be the case unless we do something now. He added that we must have learned some lessons about the cod fishing industry in Newfoundland. Chef Michael looks quite young and went to culinary school with Vardy at Algonquin, who is 27 I believe, and he said he has about 20 years of experience, so you have to wonder when did he start... in the crib?

Chef Michael went over in brief the kitchen operations, we discussed what I wanted to learn (everything and anything) and more about my course and what is happening in the region related to sustainability, cooking and wine pairing, and we could go on and on but at one point he said that I should get started in my garde manger station and took me to a young woman named Jenn who I would work with. The garde manager is where usually all the appetizers, hot and cold and desserts, are prepared and most stations I have worked in to date have only been responsible for cold, uncooked items on the menu, mostly salads, but this station was responsible for some hot appetizers in addition to the cold parts for some of the hot dishes. For example, there was a foie gras for the second course on the tasting menu, which is quite the elaborate, complex and long affair, and most of the plating comes from the cold station (pomengrante and molasses sauce, nut mixture, fig, microgreens, etc) and awaits for the Quebec foie gras to be seared and placed on the plate. There is a small fryer and portable burner for the preparation of a la minute of some items, such as the tuna-wrapped oysters, which are shucked, breaded in panko and deep fried, and then wrapped in slices of sashimi tuna on top of sauces and other ingredients. Quite the operation.

I worked along side Jenn who is quite the accomplished and confident chef in the kitchen at a young age (I was afraid to ask, but 22 or 23? ) She's a Cordon Bleu graduate in Ottawa and from the east coast, which seems to be like most of the staff from the kitchen, which helps to create quite the warm and jovial atmosphere in the kitchen. Quite the change from trying to speak Spanish and fit in the macho culture of some places in NYC. Now, I'm listening to the latest music, humour, pranks and ramblings of early 20 somethings and I feel like I'm back in college again. It doesn't seem much has changed except for me of course. I assumed Jenn liked fish and seafood being from the east coast and she said that she's trying to like seafood and fish and expand her palate, and would like to travel more. There's one benefit to being older. I have travelled to different and unique places in the world and have learned a lot (but want to travel more of course), I have always been open and curious about eating most things and have therefore tried a lot of unique and interesting food, good and bad.

Jenn took me on a tour, and went through her prep list for tonight's shift, which I would help her with. We prepared everything from an aioli, to a vinaigrette for the beet salad, to tuna tartare, to square crackers (where I had to thinly spread the dough through a square flat cutter) and a goat cheese spread for the amuse guelle, which is changed daily and served for all guests for free when they arrive, and is usually a bit salty and slightly tangy to awaken the palate and encourage people to eat and drink. At Beckta, there is also an amuse at the end of the meal as a treat for guests and a nice way to end the meal experience. We also gathered all the ingredients to prepare the station for service, with the most delicate items being gathered at the last minute, such as microgreens from a grower in Quebec which are still in dirt in pans and are clipped just before service to use. There are numerous trays of different microgreens and they are used for a variety of dishes, a lot for garnishing.

The garde manger station is compact but highly functional and is right beside the dessert station, so that one can help out the other, which was the case last night. Unlike most restaurants I've been to, the pastry chef prepared and stayed for service, saying that she likes to control the way the desserts are plated and sent out. In most places I've worked to date, the pastry chef comes in super early to prepare all the desserts and then sets up the station for dinner service and leaves, leaving the plating for the person handling the cold station. It was interesting to be able to see the pastry chef, Trish, at work preparing the desserts, explaining things to me a long the way, and letting me try things. She does amazing work like a Baked Alaska, which is a must try if you go in. It's a pastry with icecream, meringue around like a bee hive, torching of the bee hive structure so it caramelizes, a variety of specially prepared cookies so it looks like a bee in the hive, and then beside this there are two different sauces, fresh flowers, pineapple slices freshly torched (I liked all the torching she does; quite spectacular to watch), and fresh honey in it's original comb structure. Wow! This is the kind of desert that makes Beckta reign over all of the other restaurants in town and be in the top tier. Trish said she was in early child care before and changed careers. She has a general culinary degree and started off working in both but really loved pastry so veered in this direction, especially when she was working in Jasper for the hotel there. She's very nice and can handle the other stations as well so she helps out Jenn in the cold station when there's a rush in her area. A very nice arrangement and I got to be a part of all of this, helping out where I could and especially during a rush where we would have a party of 20 and would have to push through 20 of those Baked Alaska dishes in a hurry. The rush during a busy service is quite addictive, and keeps most chef working through the long and exhausting 12 hour plus days in a hot kitchen in cramped quarters. On busy nights, Bectka serves over 100, with 3 on the hot station and 2 on the cold station and the chef at the end with the finishing touches before the plate goes out and working with the service staff, and at Millennium it was over 230 on a busy night, with 2 chefs on the hot station and 1-2 in the cold station and the chef or sous-chef helping out as needed. So, the pace was a bit slower and less hectic than at Millennium, at least in the cold area, so it was nice to be able to observe and pitch in when needed.

The hot service area with the heat lamps or the pass and the cold area in front of the cold station, are both draped with white linen and very clean and formal looking for service. Behind the hot service area, is where Chef Moffat stands with his different tools (from the usual spoons to a special pair of chop sticks for the finest of work of placing things on a plate like a surgeon; so my chopstick skills will come in handy in a regular kitchen afterall), garnishes, and sauces nearby. He is the final person to touch the plate and ensures it is to perfection before it is sent out and works closely with the service staff. He is very focused and careful when he does this and was always calm and patient when doing so, even during a rush. As he told me during my discussion with him at the start, it's gets crazy during service and the heat is turned up but you will very rarely and may never see him raise his voice or be condescening to a staff person. He doesn't like that approach. He said that he worked in numerous kitchens where you were completely humiliated and torn apart infront of your peers for a small mistake and he swore that he would never be like that in his kitchen when he was chef. So, I came to the right place again, another chef who is trying to change the standard and environment of kitchens and making an impact.

There is a family dinner at 5 pm and a special dinner with meat, salad, vegetables and dessert that was left over, this time an espresso vanilla creme brulee, which I could not resist of course. The maitre'd for the evening goes over the list of who's coming in for the evening and special requirements that both the kitchen and servers listened to. This list was amazing, with every special occasion, every special requirement and any special note discussed... this woman at 6:30 pm on table x is pregnant, this man at 7 pm on table x is lactose-intolerant, there's a special anniversary on table 5 at 8 pm and we should do some special dessert for them, this couple is celebrating Valentine's on Saturday, this woman at 8 pm on table x is a regular good customer, etc. I had never seen this before in the kitchen or while working as a server. Very nice touch and shows that they really care about the customers. During the family dinner, Chef Michael introduced me as the person staging with them from a sustainable agriculture and food program in NYC and encouraged all the staff to meet me and introduce themselves. I was impressed and touched. Michael said he thinks he has the best servers in Ottawa and most of them stay there for a long time. One server I spoke to said he has been there from the beginning and loves it there. Also, the chef said that there is a good relationship between the kitchen and the front-of-house and they have always made a point that it stays this way. I said that this is rare in all that I've seen and he agreed. This is another point that is critical in a first class restaurant and I think that the customer can feel this in how they are treated by the service staff and kitchen, especially when they have a special requirement, request or criticism to make. I believes it creates a good positive vibe throughout the entire restaurant when people are happy - the service staff, the kitchen staff, and the customers.

It was fun working with the two other woman, plating a number of things and gathering things that they needed. I was way more comfortable than I have ever been and think that all my training at school and especially in restaurants have really helped me, especially at Millennium. At Millennium, I was running the cold station practically on my own one night, which is all the cold items and the desserts, with over 100 people in and here I was at Beckta on a busy night with around 80 people and three people to cover this, including me. And, the dishes at Millennium were more complex in their preparation and trying to remember everything that went into them. There is also complexity in the dishes prepared at Beckta but in a different way such as the oyster dish. Perhaps because in the vegetarian/vegan food that Eric has become known for there is so much care that is taken in the layering and blending of different flavours and he has to do so as he's dealing with the basics - vegetables, grains, etc. - and is trying to keep everything as healthful and natural as possible and it must stay vegan (no dairy or eggs). He has additional challenges that most chefs do not have to worry about and I believe he loves that challenge, and the fact that meat eaters and others love his food for just being really creative, beautiful and delicious, whatever it is. I wondered how I would do with the meat, fish and seafood aspect as I haven't touched them a lot in my course. However, besides some of the terminology that I am learning along the way dealing with meat, fish and seafood, and a walk-in fridge completely devoted to meat, fish and seafood and cutting area, I didn't notice any difference on this level. I listened to instructions, worked hard, try to pick up things quickly, tasted things for flavourings like anything else wondering if it needed more salt, sugar or acid, etc., and I asked if I didn't know. Actually people were nice in the kitchen and showed me how to do something if they saw I was doing it improperly or if there was a faster way. I always appreciate this as picking up speed and accuracy is what it's all about in the kitchen. The main thing that was different from other kitchens I've worked in is the use of more organic and natural ingredients from beginning to end, and always looking at the healthful aspect as one part of the food/dish, as I had done in school.

I loved being there in the kitchen and having the opportunity to taste a variety of things along the way. Either there would be some left overs or scrapings from when they made a dish, or someone would hand me a spoon to try something, or there would be something that was finished for the evening and they would be throwing out as they would make it fresh the next day or it was not on the menu anymore. I have not turned into a meat eater but remain a "flexitarian" with a vegetarian focus to my diet with seafood and fish regularly (pesco-vegetarian) and meat when I feel like it or when I want to try it, like last night. I especially like the fact that the chef knows where is meat is coming from and wants to ensure it is organic with no chemicals and that the animals are humanely raised. He tries to visit local farms on a regular basis and has good relationships with farmers. I feel it's important as a chef, no matter what kind, to try everything and experience as many different tastes and combinations as possible as part of educating the palate. Also, although our school was plant-focused they did not recommend one dietary philosophy as everyone is unique and can make their own choices. This approach is one of the reasons I chose the school. However, the school does teach us that we need to be responsible and concious about what we are eating and where it is coming from, know what we are putting in our bodies and how we feel when we eat certain things or don't eat certain things, buy the best quality of anything you can get, and last but not least, enjoy your food slowly, throughly and with pleasure whatever you eat, even if you think it might not be good for you.

My stomach was probably shocked by all the different elements in it by the end of the evening but it didn't complain. At the end of a hard evening, one of chefs brought out a box of Red Cap ale to share with the kitchen staff, and handed me a brown stubbie bottle. Wow, I really did feel like I was back in highschool or college again...

My shift ended around midnight after 12 hours and a thorough clean up of the kitchen. Yes, in most kitchens total clean up is part of the duties and you just pitch in and get it done, from washing the stoves and stations, the fridges inside and out, sweeping the floors, etc. One chef said it was an early night as they usually get out much later than midnight. Wow, 12 plus hours and all of the chefs were coming back to start their next shift by 12 pm the next day for another 12 - 14 hours, and they usually do this for a minimum of five days in a row. You really need stamina, determination and passion for this field if you want to stay in it and survive. Oh yes, this is where the youth and young body part comes in as having sometimes 20 years on some of these guys does make a difference, especially on the back and joints the next day.

As I was leaving, the head chef asked me if I enjoyed myself and learned something, and I smiled and said of course. I said I also enjoyed being able to sample a lot of things and he said there would be more next week and thanked me. I noticed him observing my work at several times during the night when I was working with the other two woman or alone and I guess he was satisfied. So, I'm coming back next week then for more work, samplings and stories. Yeah!

0 Comments:

Post a Comment

<< Home